Saturday, July 11

We picked up our shipment from Egypt yesterday and unpacked everything this morning. Everything came through fine with no damage or loss. This officially closes the book on our three year Egyptian experience. When we decided to “take the plunge” three years ago, we honestly did not know what to expect. Obviously our experience exceeded any possible expectations that we may have had. We found the country, the school, the people and the culture very fascinating. It is hard to describe how this has affected us. Over the course of three years, we have taught with teachers from many different states, Canada, New Zealand, Korea, and of course Egypt. We have taught students from 20 different countries. And we have traveled to Thailand, Greece, Italy, Sicily, Crete, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Poland, Germany, Austria, Spain, Turkey, Belgium, Jordan and of course throughout Egypt.

It has not always been easy but it has always been interesting. People everywhere are pretty much the same. They all want better lives for their children, a job that will provide for their families and a home that is safe. It is interesting when we made our decision to go overseas, many family members and friends were concerned about our safety, yet each June when we would leave Egypt to come home for the summer, our Egyptian friends would be concerned about our safety in the States. It is all a matter of perception and what the media shows. We have often said that during our three years we have never felt any danger or threats of any kind. People have been extremely kind and helpful to us. We’ve learned that we can get along with a lot less “stuff” than we had in the states and that a smile and “hello” can go along ways in a different culture.

We’ve given up some things to come abroad – missed out on events for our family and friends and given up some aspects of our lives that we had grown accustomed to. But we have also had the opportunity to share our experience with our family as our son, daughter and grandson, my sister and her husband and Pat’s two sisters and two of her cousins have been able to come over to visit and learn firsthand what another culture is really like from a resident standpoint off the beaten tourist path. It’s too bad that our experts in the government don’t take the time to actually live with the locals for an extended period of time – perhaps if they did relations between countries but be more amicable.

We will miss the friends that we have met over the past three years – teaching is teaching no matter where one is, but the relationships that you form along the way with others is what makes this such a rewarding experience. We will never forget the students, staff, friends and families we have shared both joy and sorrow with the past three years – we know there will always be a place in our hearts for them.
We hope that you have enjoyed reading about our overseas experience – in August we will take to the air again and leave for Tokyo, Japan. I’m sure it will be a very different and very interesting experience for us, one we are looking forward to. We hope to be able to share our experiences with you in a new blog (The Rising Sun @ http://macissh.blogspot.com/).

Friday, July 03

We arrived home safely Sunday evening around 10:45 at the Waterloo Airport. We had left Brussels at 9:05 AM and had connecting flights to Frankfurt (1 hour), Chicago (8 and ½ hours), Minneapolis (1 hour) and finally a 45 minute flight to Waterloo. All flights were on time and the lines moved quickly through security.

Our final day at Schutz (June 20th) was spent with those we have grown very close to over the past three years. My technology assistant Islam and his family came over for a little while in the afternoon. Islam has been a very important cog in our technology development. He has excellent rapport with the staff and has shown a willingness to do whatever he is asked to keep things running smooth. Later on we said goodbyes to many of the local staff workers (the kitchen and cleaning crews). These workers are the unsung heroes of the school. They take such good care of us and treat us as members of their families. We will really miss their friendly smiles and greetings each day. In the late afternoon, we went out to Montazah and spent two hours with Debbie, Mahmoud, Alaa, Ji Yung, Barb, Jaida and Lobna at Lobna’s cabana on the sea. It was a nice way to spend our final hours with these dear friends who have given us so much in terms of friendship and support over the past three years. They have opened up their hearts to us and shared their wonderful culture with us. No matter where we are, they will always be with us.

We left Egypt early in the morning on the 21st. It was a quiet ride to the airport as we drove down Schutz Street for the final time. We flew to Frankfurt and then on to Brussels (known as the Capital of Europe – home to the European Union), arriving around 10:00 a.m. We took the train from the airport to the north station in Brussels and then walked (around 5 to 10 minutes) to the Hotel La Plaza. We rested a little at the hotel and then spent a while walking and exploring the area around the hotel. Brussels is a city of approximately 1 million yet the area we were in was very easy to navigate. The first thing we noticed was how early the stores closed (5:30 to 6:00) and how late the sun is up. It was light until 10:00 p.m. each day.

On Monday, after a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we walked over to the main or “Grand Square” and took the “Brussels Bike Tour” with another couple from the states. We biked nearly 12 miles throughout the city, stopping at various historical and cultural sites. Traffic was light in some areas and heavy in others so you had to be alert, especially at intersections. Bikers are frequent and the laws are “bike friendly” as you can go either way on one-way streets and there are numerous lanes and paths to follow. The tour lasted 4 hours and we saw the following: Manneken-Pis, Royal Palace, Royal Garden, European Parliament, Palais de Justice, St. Catherine’s Cathedral and a few others.


Halfway through the tour, we stopped at “Maison Antoine” for what has been called the best “fries” in the world. Belgium fries are cooked for 8 to 10 minutes, allowed to “breathe” and then fried for another 2 to 3 minutes. They are served in a cone shaped wrapper with your choice of toppings (ketchup, curry ketchup, mayo and several other toppings). After the bike tour, we explored the area around the Grand Square before grabbing a bite to eat and heading back to the hotel.

On Tuesday, we decided that we wanted to go back to several of the sites we had briefly visited on the bike tour so we took the “Brussels City Bus Hop On and Hop Off Tour” in a large double deck open top bus. The entire tour takes about 90 minutes but you get off and explore at the various stops for as long as you wish as another bus comes along about every 30 minutes. We decided to stop and spend extra time at the “Atomium”, a unique monument built for Expo '58, the 1958 Brussels World's Fair. Designed by André Waterkeyn, it is 102-metres (335 ft) tall, with nine steel spheres connected so that the whole forms the shape of a unit cell of an iron crystal magnified 165 billion times.Tubes which connect the spheres along the 12 edges of the cube and all eight vertices to the centre enclose escalators connecting the spheres which contain exhibit halls and other public spaces. The top sphere provides a panoramic view of Brussels. The other site we wanted to spend extra time at was the the Parc du Cinquantenaire which was established in 1880 to commemorate the country's 50th anniversary. Its centerpiece is the monumental Palais du Cinquantenaire, the two wings of which, linked in 1905 by a massive triumphal arch designed by the French architect Charles Girault, The highlight of this stop was a visit to the “Autoworld” museum, home to over 550 vintage cars and other vehicles. Most come from private collections. Among them are all the best known names including Mercedes-Benz, Horch, Opel, Minerva, Cadillac, Rolls Royce, Hispano Suiza, Ford, Humber, Bentley, Packard and Oldsmobile.

On Wednesday we took the train (for 12.5 Euro each) to Bruges, the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders in the Flemish Region of Belgium. The historic city centre is a prominent World Heritage Site of UNESCO. The city's total population is 120,000, of which around 20,000 live in the historic centre. Along with a few other canal-based northern cities, such as Amsterdam, it is sometimes referred to as "The Venice of the North". Bruges has a significant economic importance thanks to its port. At one time it was the "chief commercial city" of the world. Along the way to Bruges, we passed through the lovely Belgium countryside which featured picturesque farms which small fields, dairy cows and well kept homes and buildings. It is hard to imagine that this area was a virtual moonscape during to extensive bombing and shelling during World War I. We noticed many bikes along the narrow paved roads. Our hotel (Martin’s Brugge) was located right in the heart of the colorful historical area right behind the “Belfry” and Main Square. Early in the evening, we took a 30 minute canal ride throughout the city. The “captain” of the boat provided a colorful description of many of the key areas in both English and French.

On Thursday, we took a memorable “Flanders Fields” day trip. This tour concentrates on the WW I battlefields of the “Ypres Salient.” This area was a prime battle area between the allies and the Germans. The operator of the tour was very knowledgeable about the war and the area and provided much information throughout the day. In addition, she shared many “personal interest” stories about the war and the long lasting effects of the “Great War.” Each year, unexploded shells and bodies are still being unearthed. Farmers have to be especially careful when they plow their fields.

Highlights of the tour included a restored trench, British Commonwealth War Cemeteries, the Essex Farm Field Dressing Station and the beautiful city off Ypres which was completely destroyed and now has been rebuilt to medieval plans. The cemeteries were very solemn sites – many of the head stones read “A soldier of the Great War” as identification was unknown. One of the head stones had the name of the soldier along with his age (15). A whole generation was lost in this terrible war that featured 19th century battle plans and techniques along with 20th century weapons. At the Essex Farm Field Dressing Station, our guide introduced us to the famous “Flanders Field” poem written by Dr. John McCrae who treated many of the casualties:

In Flanders Fields
By: Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, MD (1872-1918) Canadian Army

In Flanders Fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

On Friday, we toured sites in Bruges such as the Fries Museum, the Chocolate Museum (to see how the famous Belgium chocolate truffles are made) and the History of Light Museum. Later on in the afternoon, we took a carriage ride of the city and then toured the Basilica of the Precious Blood where we viewed blood that is said to have come from Jesus. Bruges is an interesting city to visit. We tasted the famous Belgium waffles (Pat likes hers plain while I prefer chocolate on mine!) as we strolled the cobblestone streets with the many sidewalk cafes. The lifestyle in Bruges and Brussels was pretty laid back, the cities were clean and easy to navigate and the weather was in the mid-70’s during the day. As we traveled back to Brussels on Saturday prior to our flight back to the states, we were struck by the phrase that we heard early in our trip to Belgium: “In Belgium, people work to live – not live to work!”

Thursday, June 18

It has been a very memorable and emotional last week for us here in Egypt. Sunday evening we traveled out to our favorite fish restaurant “Zypherion” with Massimo, Denny and Barb for an evening of good conversation and great food. The shrimp are really mis-named as they are far from small in size and grilled to perfection. We tried “bream” for the main fish and it was tender and flakey – almost melting in your mouth. On Tuesday, we had our final staff meeting of the year. It is customary to say “goodbye” to the departing staff and present them with gifts. This year, there are four others leaving along with Pat and I. It was a very nice presentation.

After the meeting, we were invited out to the “Fish Market” for a going away dinner primarily with local hire staff. Over the past three years, we have taught with many foreign hire staff as turnover has been somewhat high and it is local hire staff that has been our constant. Again it was another evening of great food (the mezes are the best in Alex), great company and wonderful memories of the past three years. It is very hard for us to describe or explain the impact this experience has had on us personally as well as professionally. The staff opens their hearts to us and truly make this wonderful country just like home for us. It is said that one is not the same after having seen the sunset on the other side of the world. The highest compliment that we have received is that we have become Egyptian – and those of you who have visited this wonderful country know how special that is.


Wednesday I taught my final class at school. Actually it is semester finals week and my last class is a service class in which I have one student, a young lady (Alaa) whom I have had for the past three years. To say she is a special student would be an understatement. In all of my years of education, I don’t know if I have had anyone quite like her. Towards the end of class, Pat came over along with our good friend Denny. Alaa took over (as she has often done in class) and showed a video she had made for me. In education, you often do not know what impact you have made on a student’s life but on Wednesday she gave me that opportunity. Early on when she took my class three years ago, I was the teacher and she was the student but as time passed, there were many times when she became the teacher and I became the student as she shared her fascinating culture with me. Tonight Alaa graduated along with 12 other outstanding students. Graduation at Schutz is indeed a special event. Four students give speeches and all did a wonderful job focusing in on the teamwork and togetherness that characterized this class. Although small in number, they have certainly left a lasting impact on our school. They will be missed.

Graduation is special for other reasons as well. We were reunited with several staff who retired last year and came back to celebrate the class of 2009. All of these former staff members had worked at the school for several years and truly represent all that is good about the school. I think also because we are such a small school, graduation is perhaps a little more meaningful as you really get to know the students and their parents and they are very appreciative of all that teachers do.

Monday, June 15

President Obama’s speech was well received throughout Egypt. This televised event probably was viewed by nearly as many people as who typically watch soccer matches. It is clear that the President has made a connection to the people here. While they were impressed with his words, they are anxious to see if the actions of the US government reflect the words of its leader.

Two previous Schutz staff recently returned for a visit. Last year’s first grade teacher, Barbara, and our good friend from two years ago, Denny, flew in late last week. Denny will be here for graduation while Barb has returned to teach summer school and will stay on to teach 1st grade next year. It has been quite a treat to have them here as they like to get off campus and walk and explore the sights and sounds of this wonderful city. Most of the government schools have released their students for the year and as the temperature is rising, the crowds on the Corniche and the beaches of the Mediterranean have increased dramatically. People are out cooling down from the warm weather with a stroll along the Med or a dip into the sea.

On Saturday, the movers came to pack us up for our return to the states. While we didn’t think we had purchased much (and we did send a very large suitcase home in April with our family), we ended up with 10 boxes which will be shipped home. The crew came in a U-Haul type truck with several employees – three in the cab of the truck and at least a half dozen in the back of the U-Haul. They also packed up another couple who is heading back to the states. Our apartment is pretty barren right now and it certainly seems more like we are indeed leaving.

There have been a few cases of swine flu reported in Cairo and one or two in Alexandria the past week. Parents are getting very nervous about this and in some cases are keeping their children home, especially at the lower school. We had a sleepover on Thursday and some parents would not allow their children to attend. The school is trying an outside vendor to provide food for the Canteen on a trial basis and we had a few cases of food poisoning reported as well.

Wednesday, June 3

During the past week we have taken part in several events and activities which have been thoroughly enjoyable. Last Friday we had our regular movie outing with Debbie and Mahmoud. We saw “Angels and Demons”, the new Tom Hanks movie. As we were waiting outside at Green Plaza for Debbie and Mahmoud before the movie, a man from Malaysia who spoke very good English came over, introduced himself and began talking to us. He is an engineer working on a project at the Alexandria Power Station. The hours are very long and he has only one day off a week. Because of the traffic in Alex, he is very hesitant to use taxis so he hasn’t gotten out much and certainly hasn’t met hardly any ex-pats who speak English. He joined us after the movie for supper and we enjoyed talking with him as he told us much about the Oriental culture that we will be joining in August. We tried to convince him to venture out in taxis to see the sights of Alec, but I don’t think we were able to .

On Saturday, we were invited over to one of our student’s home to meet with her and her fiancée. Her fiancée is hoping to get a fellowship at Harvard Medical and they plan to marry in a year. They wanted to talk to us about life in the States as well as things they need to consider financially when they live there. While the marriage is not arranged, it is a very traditional Islamic courtship. They were introduced by mutual friends with the intent to find a suitable marriage partner. They do not “date” in the Western sense as they always have a chaperone and family members around. Outing usually take place in family settings and they focus on conversations and making sure they are compatible. They became engaged late last summer and now are planning the rest of their lives together. They plan to marry after he goes to the States for the first year of his fellowship – but would like to be married before he leaves on paper and then live together as man and wife after his first year. Both families are in the upper class and are very traditional. The young lady lives in a “villa-mansion” that the family purchased 17 years ago in an area by the British Consulate. It took them nearly 7 years to renovate the home before they moved in. The home took up nearly a block with the yard and was completely surrounded by a high wall. The interior was decorated in a French provincial theme. We enjoyed a lunch that seemed more like a banquet in a large dining room with a table that seated probably 15 guests. It was a very pleasant and entertaining afternoon.

On Monday, we were invited to a birthday party for the two children of my assistant, Islam. Our friend Bev, who has been visiting Egypt, returned from a trip to Cairo and jointed us. The birthday was much like one we had attended earlier this spring except it there more family members present. Both sets of grandparents and the sisters of the parents were present with their children. Islam and his wife have two children (Adam, age 3 and Farida, age 1). It was really only Adam’s birthday, but Farida missed having a party a month earlier because of the chicken pox. It was really neat meeting all of the family members and learning about their everyday lives. Families are so close knit. Many live in close proximity to one another. In the States, young people often leave home and go off to other parts of the state or country for a variety of reasons – one of which is to make their own mark on the world. In this culture, if you want to make your own mark, you often do it in the confines of the neighborhood you grew up in.

On Tuesday, the resident teaching staff held an appreciation supper for all of the workers who make our lives here so worry free. The workers and their families were invited and it was such fun to go around to each table and meet the families of the workers. Everyone was dressed in the “Sunday” or in this culture “Friday” best. The workers were so proud to introduce their family members to us and for both Pat and I this was a real highlight of the evening as we were given the opportunity to show our gratitude to the workers and their wonderful families. Many of our workers have young children and both Pat and I were able to hold very young babies so their parents could eat their meals. For those of you who have never been here, the workers include cleaners, cooks, drivers, gardeners, security workers, painters, electricians, carpenters, etc. They are very special to us.

As you may know, President Obama is coming to Egypt on Thursday to present a major speech to the Arab World. He will be speaking in Cairo at one of the universities. Bev, our friend, was in Cairo last week and told us that many steps were undertaken to clean up the city. The people here are very anxious and excited to hear what the President will say. Needless to say, the current President of the US is far more popular than the previous President was.

May 23

Our high school prom, scheduled for last night, was cancelled. If you have been reading the news during the past few days concerning Egypt, you may have read about a major criminal trial in Cairo. The verdict came in on Wednesday and it affects not only the nation as a whole but our little school personally.

The case involves a very wealthy man who was changed with hiring a “hit” man to murder a well-known entertainer in Dubai with whom he had been romantically involved with. The man has had children attend our school as well as numerous nephews. He headed a real estate conglomerate, was a member of the upper house of Parliament and had close ties to the family of President Hosni Mubarak. He was part of the most elite strata of Egyptian society, one that Egyptians have long assumed to operate beyond the reach of the law.

However, Egyptians have been growing increasingly frustrated with two scales of justice, one for the poor and one for the rich. And there was pressure from Dubai, which was unwilling to let a murderer walk, no matter how rich and connected. The investigation proceeded and both the “hit” man and the businessman were arrested, charged and tried for the crime. Perhaps due to pressure from the United Arab Emirates and others, the current government felt the costs would be too high if they attempted to intervene in the proceedings although the court proceedings were held behind closed doors.

In the Egyptian courts, the verdict for the crime and sentence (if guilty) are both handed down at the same time. Both the “hit” man and the businessman were found guilty and sentenced to be executed on June 25th. The businessman claims that he is a victim of jealously for his success. There will be an appeal but as of now, the execution is scheduled to take place on June 25th, one week after graduation.

May 17

We just returned from a 3 day holiday, our final one of the school year. We decided to go to Porto Marina, a resort/spa located approximately 100 km from Alexandria on the North Coast. This is an area that is experiencing a boom in growth as companies are trying to capture the Mediterranean tourist trade. The resort has been in operation less than two years. It consists of a large hotel, numerous upscale shops and several restaurants all located on the sea. This resort seems to cater to a little more of a traditional crowd as opposed to similar resorts in Sharm and Hurghada. Many of the guests this weekend were Egyptian, probably from the Cairo area. A few of our students’ families own villas in this area and will vacation here in the summer time.



The hotel is built around a man-made lagoon. The view from our window was of this lagoon. Shortly after we arrived, we took a gondola ride in the lagoon.

The service in the resort was very good; several times hotel and restaurant management came over to us and wanted to know how the service was. Our plan was “all-inclusive” so it included all of the meals, drinks and snacks in the afternoon, a lagoon ride, a foot massage, and full service in the heated pool, fitness and spa area. Cost was approximately $120 per day (regularly it is $275 per day). All of the women who used the pool were dressed in the traditional full bathing suit so that only their faces, hands and feet were not covered. This is the first resort we have been to that has allowed women to use the pool with the traditional suit on.

Security was closely monitored on our drive back to Alexandria. At one of the checkpoints, we were asked to pull over and our passports were checked. Our driver was asked to get out of the car and go with the security for further questioning. He didn’t seem very happy when he returned. When we asked what the problem was but he didn’t want to talk about it.

On Friday, our seniors left for Budapest for their senior trip. Last year I accompanied our seniors to Prague and enjoyed the trip. This year’s class is a little smaller and really are a nice group of students. Two of the girls did not go on the trip. They are both scarved and come from very traditional families. Their parents did not want them to go out of the country unless accompanied by a family member so they stayed home. Both sponsors were not able to attend. Earlier in the week one of the sponsors who plans to start on her doctorate, was informed that the exam for entrance into the program was changed to Saturday, so she had to cancel and find a replacement. Then Friday, at the airport, the other sponsor was not allowed to leave the country due to an issue with his passport. So another staff member (actually the husband of the person who was replacing the first sponsor) was able to go.

This is a busy time for our seniors as many are receiving word on their acceptance into colleges. Some will attend college in the states while many will attend the American University of Cairo. In the states, this is usually an anxious time for seniors as they learn whether or not they will receive scholarships. For our students, this is not an issue s their families can easily afford to send them to any college they choose to go to. Hence, a scholarship is more of an honor than a financial reward.

About 10 days ago, one of our parents, who operated a day care center, came to the elementary (or Lower School as it is now called) to speak to the students in grades 2 through 6. Students in those grades have done community service fund raising for this day care center in the past and will do so again in the next few weeks. The day care center is very basic, even by local standards. It is held in half of a garage; a few years ago our students helped to construct a wall to divide the day care center from the other side of the garage where a van is kept. It has a bathroom and a gas stove, but neither is in working order. The money that our students raise (or donate) will go towards paying the salaries of the day care teachers (hopefully so they can be paid the going rate of 150 LE – about $30.00 – a month) and for snacks and milk. Snacks usually consist of 3 or 4 fruit loops and hopefully they will raise enough so the children can have 2 glasses of milk a week. Hand in hand with this project is a plan to raise funds for a free clinic for the children so they can be treated by a physician. The money will go for medical supplies as the doctor and nurses donate their time for the children. The parents of these children are usually unemployed and cannot read or write. The goal of the day care is to teach the children enough so they will be able to attend a government school when they are of age to begin school. Our students are also asked to bring shampoo as this is often given to the families for holidays, as families cannot afford to purchase shampoo.

We have five weeks left of school – I’m sure these weeks will go by very fast as there always seems to be many things to do. The Lower School has another week of MAP testing, a sleepover, science fair, field trips while the Upper School has two weeks of MAP testing, Prom, Honor Society, and of course semester exams . It is no doubt the same in the states, but is seems here that due to our size, everyone is involved with nearly every activity.

May 03

The big news the past few days has been the world wide news coverage of the swine flu. It has become the talk of the country. Everyone asks us if we are worried about it and what we think about it. If you have been following the world news you may have heard that the Egypt has killed all of the pigs in the country. We are not sure if that has actually happened but that is what the news media is reporting. Our students seem quite concerned as many do travel abroad and are worried if they will be able to fly. In reality, there is probably much more of a threat of avian (bird) flu in Egypt than swine flu. Our senior class is scheduled to leave on their Senior trip to Hungary in about 10 days and they wonder if their flights will be cancelled.

Friday evening we went to the movies, viewing Harrison Ford in “Crossing Over”, a film dealing with illegal immigration in the United States. It was an interesting film with many different sub-plots. We were discussing the film afterwards and one of our Egyptian friends, Mahmoud, told us that there are issues here with illegal immigrants in Egypt and that is has become very difficult for many Egyptians to travel abroad. Some that we have spoken with have said that it would be very unlikely that they would ever travel outside the country because it is difficult to get all of the paperwork completed in order to leave.

We are just beginning the final quarter in the school year. The days continue to fly by. We have about six more weeks remaining in our Egyptian adventure. If we think about leaving we become emotional as we have become fond of the people and this warm, wonderful country. In the past few years, we have seen some staff that were anxious to move on and couldn’t wait to leave while there have been others like us who have found it very emotional as the clock ticks down. We are just trying to stay as busy as possible (which is easy here) and focus on what needs to be done each day and try not to think too far ahead. We will carry many fond memories with us when we ride down Schutz Street that final time.

April 20

I was able to pick up the luggage late Saturday evening. At first when I went to the airport the security didn’t want to let me in since I didn’t have an outgoing ticket. It took approximately15 minutes to convince them that all I wanted was to pick up luggage that was lost in a previous flight. They finally let me pass then the officials at the baggage claim area told me I would have to come back in the morning as I hadn’t brought my passport. Fortunately, I have an Egyptian Drivers License and that was able to serve as my identification along with the baggage claim. Anyway, after a few more minutes, I was able to claim the luggage and leave.



Sunday evening we joined Debbie and Mahmoud for supper at the Chinese Restaurant at the historic Hotel Cecil overlooking the bay and yacht club on the Corniche. The view from the top of the hotel where the restaurant is located is probably one of the best in Alexandria. It is said that Agatha Christie, Winston Churchill and Somerset Maugham are a few of the many dignitaries who stayed at the Cecil. The cab ride to the Cecil was one of the more interesting rides we have had. The cabbie spoke some English and seemed anxious to try it out. He told us much about his present life as he took us on a roundabout route to the Cecil. He seemed interested in showing as some sights and even stopped at one of the Roman historical locations. He offered to give us a tour anytime and wanted to give us his mobile number to call him. Like many locals we have met, he was very friendly and hospitable. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he didn’t want to accept our payment as he wanted us to be happy with his service. He finally took the money after we took his name and phone number.

April 18

We have returned from a relaxing stay on the Island of Crete. We left for Crete last Friday in the wee hours (as most flights leave Egypt) at 2:55 AM. We have never really understood why the flights are always as such early morning hours but it really plays havoc with our systems. Because you have to be at the airport two hours before for an international flight, we figured there wasn’t any use in going to bed – besides, we had family visiting and wanted to spend as much time with them before we left. We flew to Athens and then had longer layover than planned because the flight to Heraklion was delayed (a sign of things to come). When we finally made it to Heraklion, we were to be met by a taxi and while we were, it wasn’t quite the norm as there was a strike and taxis were not allowed on airport property. So we had to take a bus for a short distance before getting our taxi.

Crete is the largest of the Greek islands and the 5th largest in the Mediterranean. It was the Minoan civilization (ca. 2600–1400 BC), the oldest Greek civilization, which was one of our main reasons for wanting to visit Crete. There are several cities, towns and villages and we chose Hersonissos to stay in.



Our hotel (Amazones Village Resort) was located in the hills about a mile from the downtown area in a neat little village area with several family run businesses and tavernas. The hotel specializes providing a friendly atmosphere and we enjoyed our stay. Because of the location, we had a great view of the sea without much traffic. The only downside was the hike into town, or more specifically the hike back. It was all downhill going in and uphill coming back. We certainly got our exercise! The family run tavernas in the area offered very good food and great service. Often, we were the only customers. The Greek salads were great! We also found a little pastry shop that specialized in pies and rolls, just hitting the spot in the mid afternoon.



One of the highlights of Crete was the visit to the Palace of Knossos. The Palace of Knossos is the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on Crete and probably the ceremonial and political center of the Minoan civilization and culture. It was built between 1700 and 1400 BC and was “discovered” by British archeologist Arthur Evans in 1900. He performed much of the excavation and restoration. Much of what we see today is based on an interpretation by Evans of what he believed. We spent nearly three hours exploring the grounds. Unfortunately the museum which holds many of the artifacts from the Palace is under renovation and most of the collection is not available for viewing.

Most of the rest of our stay on Crete was spent relaxing by the pool and strolling through the small villages near our hotel. Nearly all of the structures are stone, many of which are over a hundred years old. The pace in this area is much slower than in many tourist spots and it provided us with a very relaxing time. Both of us were able to get some reading done that we normally do not seem to have a much time for. I’m sure the pace picks up considerably during the summer months as Crete is one of the major tourist hotspots for Europeans. In fact a few of the shopkeepers and taverna owners were transplanted from other countries. We met a man who lived in Alexandria whose grandfather once owned Zypherion – our favorite fish restaurant! His grandfather owned it when Aristotle Onassias was a regular customer at Zypherion.

Our trip home was a real experience. We were scheduled to leave at 11:05 PM from Heraklion and 1:15 AM from Athens. When we checked in at the airport in Heraklion, we were told that our flight would be delayed until 12:30 AM, making it virtually impossible to make our connecting flight. Since there would be no flights the next day, it would be two days before we could fly into Alex – the airline told us we might be able to get on a flight to Cairo the following evening. After a “heated” discussion, we finally boarded the flight to Athens and hoped we could make our connecting flight. When we landed in Athens, we virtually sprinted to the other gate as we were told that our connecting flight to Athens still hadn’t taken off. We made it “barely” – thinking they had held the plane for us. Later, another Schutz couple who was on that flight told us the plane was delayed in taking off because many of the passengers had made several purchases at the “duty-free” shop and it cause a delay as they brought their items on board and tried to find storage space for them in the overhead compartments.

We arrived in Alexandria (after a shaky landing) and chaos ensued as we taxied to the airport. Egyptians are notorious for always being in a hurry to get off the plane. Even as we are still moving, they are up and pushing their way towards the exits. The flight attendants quickly give up and just try to get out of the way of the onrushing crowd! After we got through passport control, we headed for the baggage claim all the while have a feeling that maybe our luggage didn’t make the connecting flight. Guess the odds finally caught up with us and sure enough, our luggage was still in Athens. We filed a claim and by the time we got back home, it was nearly 4:00 AM. We got a call today and were told to come to the airport tonight at midnight and our luggage would be coming in. Hopefully all will be fine when we go pick it up.

April 09

The Camel-Lot World Wide Tour is entering the final stages. On Wednesday we joined our friend Lobna at Montazah. Montazah is a large complex surrounded by great walls from the south, east and west, and with the beach on its north side. This area used to belong to the Mohamed Ali family, which ruled Egypt from the mid XIXth century until 1952. The construction was started in 1892 by King Abbas II, who built a large palace inside the complex called the Salamlek. In 1932 King Fuad built a larger palace and called it the Haramlik. Montazah Palace was the last residence for King Faruk I before he abdicated in 1952. At one time deer and gazelles roamed the vast grounds. Much of the area is occupied by beautiful gardens. Palm trees and flower beds cover the area. Lobna has a “cabana” near the sea with a wonderful view of the Mediterranean. We enjoyed a quiet afternoon of good conversation with the sounds of the sea in the background. These cabanas are family owned and are passed from generation to generation. We traveled to and from Montazah in two cabs. Traffic was very thick at times – one of the best descriptions the Camel-Lots heard while they were here from one of the guides was that the drivers “fill in the gaps”. The taxi rides are always an experience. One of the taxis had no working gauges and a steering wheel that was barely attached to the steering column.

In the evening we power walked down to San Steffano for a movie. Pat and Diane went to “My Mother’s New Boyfriend” while Linda, Ruth Ann and I went to “Slumdog Millionaire”. Ticket prices for the 7:00 PM show was 30 LE while popcorn was 5 LE.

Today we rode the tram down to the Roushdy area to visit the Sacred Heart School (an all girl’s school with nearly 700 students). We have wanted to visit a local school since we have been here to see how it compares with Schutz. The style of education is different. Students are tested each month and ultimately how they do on these tests determine their placement later on for their studies. Class size was very large in the school with between 45 and 60 students. As we walked into the classroom, all of the students stood in unison and welcomed us. We observed several classrooms and were very impressed with how orderly and polite the students were. School is over each day at 3:00 but many students stay after as well a come in on weekends for extra help. The school is considered a private school but it is still under control of the Ministry of Education. The tram ride to and from Roushdy was very interesting. People of all ages will converse with us and help us out with the stops to make sure we find our way. Diane and I were having a conversation with two young men and according to local customs; there is a possibility that Diane became engaged! We hope Dave will understand.



We visited the adjacent church to the school. They are in the process of refurbishing the interior. One of the areas they are working on is painting the ceilings and archways. We met the artist and observed his work. Notice the details in the photo of the ceiling. The work he does is truly amazing.

We have just a few hours left with the Camel-Lots – what an experience for all of us. It has been a wonderful two weeks sharing our life here with them. Someone said that your life will be different when you view a sun set from the other side of the world and for the Camel-Lots that is probably true. They also have been wonderful ambassadors for America as our other visitors (my sister Eileen and her husband Bryan, our son Aaron and our daughter Angelia and grandson Nick) have been.

April 07

We’ve arrived back to the friendly confines of Schutz today after a whirlwind tour of Cairo, the city that truly doesn’t sleep. Every aspect of our Cairo experience was memorable. We left Friday the 3rd by train for a leisurely trip down. The train runs through the rich agricultural area of Egypt. Here one can see nearly any mode of transportation by the locals ranging from pickups, cars, tractors, donkeys, donkey carts, bikes, and on foot. Most of the field work is done by hand as it has been for hundreds of years. We arrived at the train station and were met by a slew of taxi drivers, one of which had a station wagon that could transport all of us in one vehicle to our hotel. We loaded up the wagon, got in and sat as the driver tried to get his vehicle started. The engine didn’t turn over so he hopped out, popped the hood and fiddled with the engine. Again, nothing so he yelled at someone and asked me to hop out and we began pushing it. I was thinking it was a little too far to do this to the hotel, as he jumped in and popped the clutch to start the engine. After a thrilling ride through the streets of Cairo we arrived safely at our hotel.

Later in the afternoon, we took a taxi over to an area on the Nile and took a little sailboat ride. I think the girls really enjoyed getting up close to the great river and to the boat captain who wanted to have photos taken with the Camel-lots. After our boat ride, we met with Debbie and Mahmoud to dine at a favorite Lebanese restaurant located in the area nearby the American Embassy. What started out as a pleasant stroll though the embassy area turned out to nearly start an international event. The grounds outside the embassy are guarded by an Egyptian security force. The Camel-lots asked one of the young guards if they could take a photo of the embassy. Apparently he didn’t understand what they were asking him and as they pulled out their cameras and started snapping photos, security from both ends of the streets rushed towards us. They looked at the cameras and demanded that the photos be deleted—we were probably pretty lucky they didn’t confiscate the cameras. They asked Mahmoud to see his identification and took his Egyptian National Identification Card and asked to see my passport, taking down my name and passport number. A few more security officials came and told us it would only be a few minutes before we would be able to go on to the restaurant after we explained what we were doing. A few minutes passed and more minutes passed and finally after nearly an hour we were allowed to go on but they kept Mahmoud’s identification card until we returned after our meal. The guards apologized for detaining us but tried to explain that the heightened security in the area was necessary due to the recent unrest in the Kahn.



Saturday we visited the Great Pyramids of Giza and the Egyptian National Museum. Our guide for the day was a young Muslim guide, Radwa. She was a very knowledgeable and pleasant young lady who not only provided us with a wealth of historical information but also good insight into the Islamic culture of Egypt. The Pyramid area was very crowded with many tourists and school groups visiting. Temperatures were very warm. We have been to the Pyramids a half a dozen times and yet we still are amazed when we visit. The magnitude of these structures and the engineering skills it must have taken to build these are indeed remarkable. I don’t know how they could be built today even with the modern technology and equipment. The area around the Pyramids has been cleaned up and is much more secure today, with fencing and secures entrances. There are still many souvenir vendors peddling their wares. Linda was a favorite of the vendors – it almost was as if she had a flashing neon sign proclaiming “I am a shopper!” The others attracted their share of attention as well, but it seemed that the vendors flocked to Linda.



The highlight of the trip to the Pyramids was the camel rides. Each of the Camel-lots climbed up on a trusty camel and headed out into the desert. After a few strides, they looked like veteran camel jockeys! We enjoyed lunch at a nice local restaurant before visiting the National Museum. Much of the focus in the museum was on the King Tut exhibit. The museum houses over 100,000 pieces and one could easily spend days without scratching the surface of all that is on display. With only two hours we wanted to limit our attention to King Tut as his collection is fairly complete.

Sunday, our guide was ill so we had a different guide, Sally who took us to Dahshour, Saquarra (Home of the first (Steppe) Pyramids, Memphis (site of the first united capital of Egypt, and the Kahn El Khalili Bazaar. At Dahshour we climbed down 139 steps into one of the early Pyramids. The air inside the Pyramid had the odor of ammonia. The climb down and up was a little more strenuous than we thought and for the next two days we felt the effects in our legs. The temperature Sunday was in the high eighties with not a cloud in the sky. Anywhere we could, we looked for shade to get a little relief from the heat. After lunch we visited the Kahn where the ladies enjoyed an afternoon of bargain hunting and “negotiating” with the vendors. It is interesting to listen to the sales pitch of the vendors as they try to make a sale. For many westerners who are used to paying set prices, shopping can be an eye-opening experience. It is best to just relax and have some fun with it. The vendor will try to get customers to pay the highest possible price but if you have a price in mind that you are willing to spend, they will often come down and reach a price that both will be satisfied with. They will often ask if you are happy with the price because they feel you are more likely to tell others when you are satisfied. After shopping, we stopped at the oldest café in the Kahn, one where the last king of Egypt, King Farouk is said to have dined. We wanted to enjoy a cool drink before heading back to the hotel. As soon as we sat down, various vendors swarmed to our table to offer camel skin wallets, jewelry, watches, and scarves. One of their techniques is to pull out a lighter and hold an open flame to show that the wallets, jewelry, scarves, etc. are authentic. We thought afterwards that when we go shopping in the states this summer we should pull out a lighter to test products in the stores back home!

Radwa returned to guide us on Monday as we visited Coptic Cairo, the Citadel, Mohamed Ali Mosque, the Ben Ezra Synagogue and the Sultan Hassan Mosque. We have visited several cathedrals in Europe over the past three years and these mosques certainly rival anything we have seen in regards to design and architecture. It is truly remarkable that these were built without the equipment we use today. Our guide gave us good insight into the Islamic religion and the role it has played in the history and culture of Egypt. One of the enjoyable aspects of our visit to Cairo was exploring the neighborhood area of Zamalek. This is one of our favorite areas in Cairo – it was once home to many of the major embassies. There are still a few in the area and it is very quiet and easy to walk in during the evening. The people on the street are very helpful if you are not sure where you are going. Just like in Alex, people smile and say hello, welcoming you to their country.

Today we crossed the Nile for the final time with Camel-lots and headed back to Alexandria. We will regroup for a couple of days and get caught up with our laundry before the Camel-lots head back to the States and we head to Crete.

April 03

Spring Break has finally arrived and none too soon for many of the staff here. It has been difficult this past week keeping the kids focused on school and it has been difficult for Pat and I as well with family visiting as we are anxious to be with them as much as we can.

On Monday, the Camel-lots toured Alexandria, visiting many of the important historical sites. They have become a big hit wherever they go – people flock to them (maybe it is the generous tipping but more than likely it is their friendly Iowa personalities). They seem to be able to strike up a conversation with nearly anyone. Many of the locals are anxious to practice their English while others seem to be fascinated to hear them speak. Monday evening we all boarded the tram to travel to the Sporting Club to meet with Madame Lobna to purchase jewelry. On the tram ride a young man struck up a conversation with the ladies. The man was a chemist who had spent 5 years in the States around the time of 9/11. His wife is currently in Algeria; he is living with his parents. As they were talking, another man came over and listened very intently. I’m sure it is very unusual for those who ride the tram to speak at length to any Westerners – tourists typically do not ride the tram – so it benefits both our guests to learn of everyday life here and the locals to learn that the typical American is really no different than they are.

Jewelry buying with Lobna is always a unique experience. There is a shop in the Sporting Club that sells excellent quality items, primarily gold, silver and diamonds. We have purchased several items there with her help. When we enter the little shop the owner is very pleased to see us but also knows that he is in for battle when it comes time to negotiate the price. Cost for silver or gold items is based on their quality and their weight and he will have a figure in mind that he feels he needs to get. It is interesting to watch the exchange back and forth before a price is finally arrived at. Above all, as a shopkeeper he wants us to be happy with the price we settle on and he wants to be sure that Lobna (one of his best customers) is also happy as well. After nearly 90 minutes, the Camel-lots walked out with several nice items reflecting Egyptian culture.




Tuesday the ladies spent time with one of my students, Alaa, a young lady who is a very devout Muslim who comes from a wealthy family. For over an hour, they asked questions to find out about life here. Conversations such as this not only benefit our travelers but also benefit the locals as they learn that the typical American is not always like they see in the media. In the evening, we visited our local family that we have become friends with. They invited us over to meet our family and give our family a glimpse of everyday life. Their home would probably be very typical for a middle class family in Egypt. In addition to their family, the wife’s sister and her children came over as well to join in the evening. There were four boys who attend an English speaking public school in the two families. They understand and read English very well but sometimes have difficulty speaking it so this gives them a good opportunity to practice. Class size in school for 3 boys is quite large, with 55 in the class while the youngest boy has only 25 in his class. When we asked why the difference, the parents told us that they have to pay more for the smaller class – 1500 LE for the large class vs. 500 LE for the smaller class. Another interesting topic of conversation was the discussion of marriage. A man can have up to three wives. He has to provide equally for all three. His reasons for having more than one usually center on children. If one is unable to provide him with a child, he may marry a second. There is often quite a bit of jealously that occurs within a family between the wife and the sisters of the husband. The sisters can be angry because the wife is taking their brother away from the family. All in all, it was a most interesting day for the Camel-lots as they learned much about life and the people in Egypt.



On Wednesday, we visited Zypherion, our favorite fish restaurant located in Abo Kir, a short drive from Alexandria. There isn’t a more pleasant dining experience to be found than on the shores of the Mediterranean than Zypherion at sunset. We ordered two large sea bass and over 3 kilo of prawn (shrimp – although shrimp would not be an accurate description as these were probably 6 inches long). Diane and Pat engaged in a prawn eating contest and they probably consumed a kilo themselves. We were joined by Debbie (a local foreign hire teacher) and her husband, Mahmoud (who teaches at the university)’ Tamer (another teacher) and his mother-in-law from New York who has traveled over to visit and his son. One of the highlights of the Zypherion is picking out the fish. They will have the day’s catch in the kitchen and you can go and pick out what you want to have. This evening was an important evening for the restaurant as later on (around 9:00) the governor of Alexandria and Ahmed Nazif, the Prime Minister of Egypt was scheduled to dine at Zypherion.

Thursday, we visited our friend Lobna for tea and two delicious desserts at her apartment. Perhaps the best description of Lobna’s apartment would be like a museum of classical furniture and silver. Lobna is a most gracious host who has been our “buddy” ever since we arrived in Alexandria three years ago. She enjoys meeting our family when they come over and sharing with us. She provides a unique perspective into the culture and lifestyle of cosmopolitan Alexandria, when it was often referred to as the “Pearl of the Mediterranean.” We used the tram again for our transportation. Thursday evenings it is very crowded and often there aren’t any seats. Young men who have seats will rise and offer their seats to the ladies. As we walked back to the school from the tram line, several children come up and ask the Camel-lots what their names are and how old they are. They aren’t being disrespectful when they ask the age; it may be one of a few sentences that they know how to say in English. Anytime the Camel-lots leave campus during the day while we are in school, children will come up to them to talk. Several times the ladies have left campus on their own and explored the neighborhood and shopped for bargains. The locals are quick to assist them with anything to make their stay in Egypt as hospitable as possible.

Today we are headed out to Cairo on the train. This should be a memorable experience. On the ride down we will step back in time and see farming as it once was in the states in the 20’s and 30’s when much f the work was done by hand. Once in Cairo they will experience all of the history of the antiquities such as the Pyramids, Coptic Cairo, the Citadel, Memphis, the Kahn, etc. The sights and sounds of this busy metropolis (the largest city in the Arab world) with over 25,000,000 can be overwhelming at first look but we are sure the Camel-lots will be up to the challenge!

March 30

Those world famous travelers, the Camel-lots, arrived in Alexandria on Friday after a whirlwind tour 24 hour tour of Jordan. In Jordan, they visited the Dead Sea and Mt. Nebo (Moses’ last stop). They arrived in Alexandria around 4:45 PM so we were able to return back to Schutz for the evening meal. That evening we settled everyone into their apartments and then journeyed out into the neighborhoods for an up close look at everyday life in Alexandria. Friday nights are pretty lively in our area so the girls got a chance to see the various shops open and bustling with activity. Normally when Pat and I walk in the area, we no longer draw much attention as the shopkeepers are used to seeing us but tonight with six of us, we did attract a many stares and the typical welcomes (“Welcome to Egypt and Welcome to my country”). The area we went (Bakos) boasts a lively evening market place that is packed with the locals. It is usually not an area where tourist will travel so a group featuring a Western man and five Western women (including a blonde!) really stand out. Overall the people greeted our family very warmly, with many smiles and friendly voices.

Saturday we spent most of the morning giving the girls a tour of the school. During the afternoon, Pat had a baby shower to attend and the travelers needed some time to rest before we took on another evening stroll. This time we headed down Schutz Street and stopped by the pharmacy and the barber shop so they could meet some of the locals who have taken care of us over the past three years. Following this, we headed to San Steffano for a look at the “other side” of Alex. We stopped at Starbucks and enjoyed a cup of hot chocolate overlooking the Mediterranean before heading back home for a few games of cards.



I headed back to work on Sunday while Pat accompanied the Camel-lots to St. Mark’s for a two hour church service, a tour of the famous Bibliotech and a relaxing lunch along the Med at Fresca’s. In the evening we enjoyed a few more games of cards and then Ruth Ann, Diane, Linda and I went out for “shopping walk.” We took a little different way home so they could see a few more of the little nooks and crannies of the side streets. From the outside, many of the streets look the same, but when you actually walk the area you find the each one is unique with their own personalities. Even though the city has over 6,000,000 people, it is like a small town because the majority of people will spend most of their lives in their neighborhood, rarely venturing out. We did get to see a basket being lowered down to the street near one of our local shops with a list of items for the shopkeeper to fill and send back up.

Today the Camel-lots will be touring Alexandria, visiting Quit Bay, Pompey’s Pillar, the Roman Amphitheater and the Catacombs. The weather looks good and I’m sure they will have another interesting day.

March 27

Last evening we visited our Egyptian family friends to celebrate their daughter’s (Sarah) 5th birthday. Earlier in the week, the mother (Eman) stopped by the school to give Pat with a present in honor of Egyptian Mothers Day. During the week, we went shopping for a present for Sarah and also for two gifts for Eman and her mother. We looked all around, unsure what to buy, not knowing what would be considered appropriate or not. We finally decided on scarves as both Grandma and Eman are scarved.

We arrived at 7:00 PM on Thursday evening for the celebration. In addition to Hosny, Eman, Grandma and the three children (Ahmed, Mohammed and Sarah), Eman’s sister who lives across the street and her three children were also there. We had a wonderful time visiting with them and enjoying the birthday celebration. Everyone brought gifts for Sarah and helped her unwrap the presents. “Happy Birthday” was sung in both English and Arabic and there was cake, rolls, cookies, jello, sandwiches, soda and tea.

Eman’s sister who lives across the street lives in an apartment house with her husband and children. Her husband has 7 brothers and 1 sisters. They also live in the apartment house along with their children. Some of the children are older and are away at college. It is not unusual for families to share an apartment house. In this type of arrangement, the children have “built-in” playmates. There can be conflicts but for the most part, the families prefer this arrangement.

Spending time with the El Gazar family has been one of the most rewarding experiences for us while teaching overseas. We have learned much about the culture and lifestyle of the typical citizens of this warm and hospitable country.

March 21

Spring is arriving on the shores of the Mediterranean. Temperatures are warming up a little and the rain is ending. Over the past two weekends, workers have been trimming trees and bushes and planting flowers. The campus really looks nice.

A few weeks ago we received shipment of 54 new computer workstations for staff. We have them all set up now and have been busy cleaning up the old machines. We have placed some of the old machines back in the classrooms for teachers who wanted extra workstations for their students. The remainder of the old machines we offered to our workers at a very low price. They were snatched up as quickly as you would see items in an after Thanksgiving sale in the states. For many, the chance to buy a computer from a retail store would be way to expensive so when we made this offer, it became affordable for them. We have a waiting list for the next round – hopefully we will be able to find some funds to purchase some additional machines for our upper school library.

Last evening we went out to movie and supper with another couple – we hadn’t been out for a couple of weeks and it is nice to get off campus. Traffic was especially heavy as this weekend is the Egyptian Mothers Day Weekend and the crowds were very large. It has been a busy time for staff recently with conferences, meetings and other events and many of the staff have been relaxing in their apartments and trying to catch their second wind before the rush of the end of the quarter in two weeks.


We are very excited as we have guests arriving in less than a week. Pat’s sisters and two of her cousins are making their first trip to the land of the sun. We have been busy making plans for their stay here. We will do many of the regular tourist type things (visiting the Pyramids, touring Cairo, shopping in the Kahn, etc) but we will also able to give them a first-hand look at the everyday culture of this wonderful country. They will walk the streets, ride the trams and taxis, meet locals and enjoy an insider’s view of living in a foreign country. They are scheduled to arrive next Friday inshallah.

March 02

Our little corner of the world has become a little less safe. Over the weekend, a few couples went to Cairo to enjoy the three day weekend. They were in the area of the Khan el-Khalili, the famous shopping market bazaar – one of the oldest in this part of the world. The Khan is a favorite stopping place for tourists and is always very busy. A couple of weeks ago, persons on motorcycle (cars are banned in the area), tossed a bomb into a crowd of tourists – actually students from France. One person was killed and seventeen others were injured. Obviously security in the area was tightened and no one really gave much thought to anything else that might happen. Well, this time it struck really close to home as one of our teachers was attacked by a man with a knife. Fortunately, the teacher was able to fend him off without serious damage. He was cut in the face and had to have 5 stitches. The man was quickly wrestled to the ground and carted off by the police. Supposedly he had been recently released from a mental facility. His motives for the attack were his dislike of the events that have been happening in Gaza, blaming Westerners for the unrest in the Middle East.

During a typical week, our school website receives approximately 3,000 hits. On Sunday we received nearly double the average for a day. The article about the attack mentions that the teacher was from an “American school in Alexandria” and visitors to our website searched in Google and Yahoo for the phrase “American school in Alexandria.” We hope this is not an indication that the mood in Egypt toward Westerners is changing. Times are tough here with an economic crisis and unemployment over 20%. The country is in a difficult position, an Arab Muslim country that is also on good terms with Israel and often serves as a peace broker in the area. We’ve not noticed any change in Alexandria, but students tell us that the overall crime rate is rising due to the tough economic times.

The weather continues to be a bit nasty. Saturday evening the rains were heavy and we even had lightning and thunder. In fact, our school internet router was hit and we were without service for about 12 hours. Hopefully the weather will clear up and warm temperatures will return.

February 27

We are enjoying a 3 day weekend, our first break since the start of the second semester. Most staff are staying around campus for the weekend, relaxing and getting caught up with a few things. The weather has been very unusual the past few days. Temperatures have been cooler than in the past two years and we have had quite a bit of rainfall. Today we walked down to San Steffano for a movie and dinner and the winds reminded us of March in Iowa. They were especially strong as we got closer to the sea.

Next week we host the Junior Varsity Academic games. There will be approximately 60 students here form other schools in the Middle East. The schools will compete against each other in “quiz” games. Pat and I will be reading and timing some of the contests. It should be a fun event and I know our students are looking forward to the competition. Events like this are very important for our students to be involved with. It gives them the opportunity to meet students from other areas. Many times these students will form friendships that last several years as they may compete against each other for 4 to 6 years.

One of my students stopped by on her way home on Wednesday evening and as we were talking she told me that she had just gotten her driver’s license. Young people are able to get their licenses when they turn 18. They are to take a driving test and pass an eye exam. She told me that she did not have to do both as her family has “connections” and all they had to do was pay to get the license. Things are often done this was in Egypt, it is now what you know but who you know.

February 21

Last Monday, I woke up with some pain and numbness in the area of my right hip and down my right leg. This continued throughout the week and by Wednesday morning, I developed some chest discomfort. We went to the school nurse and she suggested we contact the cardiologist who had us go to the hospital (International Cardiac Center). There are several hospitals in Alexandria and in most cases you would not necessarily know that the building was a hospital from the outside. ICC has a small entrance and reception area and of course it was very crowded. Our school nurse came along with us to help in the paperwork and translation. I was taken into their ICU unit first – a small crowded room with three beds separated by curtains, where they attached a heart monitor and did an EKG. In the meantime, they decided to admit me to do a serious of tests (or investigations as they called them) in order to determine if anything was heart related. In order to be admitted, we had to pay up front so the school nurse sent the driver back to the school to get the money for the tests and hospital charges.

I was in ICU for about two hours while the paperwork and payments were made and then transferred up to “suite.” The suite was actually larger than the ICU – a private room with a pull out love seat so Pat could stay the night along with a full bathroom. As we settled into the room, when a hospital worker would bring something (such as towels, sheets, etc) our school nurse would discreetly hand them a little “baksheesh” or tip (such as a LE or two). We don’t know if that is regularly done or not.

During the remainder of the day, they would wheel me to various parts of the hospital for tests (ultrasound and echo cardiogram). They transported me to an imaging center by ambulance in order to have a CAT scan of my chest. Fortunately, all the tests proved to be fine and they felt the cause of the problem was probably a pinched nerve causing the numbness and the heart discomfort was probably due to anxiety. The experience in the hospital was interesting. ICC seems to be a very good hospital. It is clean and reasonably well equipped, although somewhat dated by western standards. The nursing staff seemed intent on making our stay as pleasant as possible. We did have some communication problems at times after our school nurse left, but nothing that we couldn’t work out. The staff was very intent on making our stay as pleasant as possible. They kept asking how everything was and I am sure they wondered why we would come to a hospital in Alexandria, since we were from the States. We had to keep explaining that we did live here and that is why we came. The nurses were all very polite and would say they were sorry if they had to give me shot or take blood.

By early the 2nd day, we were anxious to get home and were able to convince them to discharge us after a visit from the cardiologist. A driver and our school purchaser came to take us back home but it took a while for the paperwork to be completed and for the hospital to have assurances that someone from the school would come back later in the day to pay for the remainder of the stay. We were sure glad to get back home.



Friday evening we had a residents cookout – complete with steak, baked potatoes, and corn on the cob. We wanted to prepare and serve the meal to the kitchen staff in appreciation for all that they do for us. But in the end, they let us grill the meat and serve them, but they prepared all of the rest of the food and wouldn’t let us clean up afterwards. Our kitchen staff is truly wonderful. They work very hard to try to please each of us and remember our likes and dislikes. Those of you who have visited here know what we mean when we say that our kitchen crew truly treats us royally! Every time we have lentil soup (my personal favorite), they bring out a larger bowl for me. We thank them after each meal but often wonder if they really know how much we do appreciate what they do for us.

February 10

Over the past two and ½ years our overseas adventure has been centered in Alexandria, Egypt. In a few months, this will all change. Next August our travels will take us farther East to Tokyo, Japan. We will be joining the staff at the International School of the Sacred Heart, a Catholic all-girls school with a rich tradition of over 100 years. The decision to leave Schutz was not an easy one to make. We truly love the country and the people of Egypt. The culture is so fascinating with such a rich history. The locals have taken us in and treated us with such warmth and respect. We will truly miss them. When we started teaching overseas three years ago, we weren’t sure how we would enjoy it or how long we might do it. But we felt that we did want to experience another part of the world before we finally unpacked our suitcases for good and settled back in the great Hawkeye state. Last spring, we traveled to Thailand for the NESA conference and really enjoyed our visit to Asian culture. In addition, there have been two couples and one single teacher who have taught in Japan that we have worked with. They spoke very highly of their Japanese educational experience. When the opportunity came up just a little over a week ago – we talked it over and decided to accept the offer to move east.

It will be a new position that is being created in the school (Head of the Department of Media). This position will oversee a combined computer technology and library departments. In addition, there will be a position for Pat (we are not sure what that is yet). It will be a very interesting adjustment. Unlike Schutz, we will not be living on campus – instead we will be living in an apartment nearby. This will give us a chance to embrace the local culture perhaps more than we have here. The school is located in an older established area of Tokyo where many of the embassies are located. The student population is more international than we have here. We are excited about the new adventure but we realize we still have a lot to do here.

The weather today was probably the worst we have experienced since we have been in “paradise.” The temperatures have cooled down to the low 60’s but it seems much cooler as the winds have been very high and throughout the day we had several torrential rain showers. It reminded us of those early weeks in April in Iowa when it would rain cats and dogs. We had almost as much rain today as we have had over the past month. Of course the streets are a mess as most do not have storm sewers and the water flows down the streets bringing traffic to a snails pace. Hopefully it won’t last long.

We are doing MAPS testing in grades 3 through 6 this week and next. Pat is playing a key role as a Procter. In addition to monitoring the students during the tests, she also sets up the computer workstations for testing. It is our first attempt at this type of standardized test and the students seem to be really focused on doing a good job.

Tonight, we ordered a traditional Indian meal for supper from one of our Indian staff members who have started a catering business. Being our first foray into Indian cuisine, we asked for mild dishes (as traditionally dishes are hot and spicy). If what we had was considered mild – we are not sure if we ever want to try anything hotter. We had chicken curry, daal makhni, onion parata and peas palao (I think I have the spelling right!). It was very good but both of us thought our mouths were on fire – yet strangely enough it was hard to stop eating. We will probably do this now on a weekly basis – if our mouths cool down!

January 31

We watched the inauguration of President Obama with great interest on the 20th. It was very exciting to see the enthusiasm and hope that his election has stirred. The past eight years have not been kind to America and the challenges facing the new president are huge; the war in the Middle East, the faltering economy, rising health care costs, educational issues, etc. These problems will not be easy to solve, after all it took eight years to get where we are now. The inauguration was one of the most heavily viewed events by the local Egyptians as well, even rivaling the Ahly Soccer matches. Many have commented to us how happy they are to see a change. To think that the US could elect an African-American man with a Middle Eastern sounding name to the highest office in the land gives them some hope as well. Throughout its long history it is remarkable to know that the first presidential elections in Egypt were held in 2005 and even then the outcome of the election was never in any doubt. Anyway, we wish President Obama well and hope that the branches of government and corporate America have learned their lessons and are finally going to work for the good of all Americans.

On Friday we went for an early morning walk – Fridays, of course, is the holy day for Muslims and there is barely any traffic in the early morning. The call to prayer echoed through the streets and a few shops that were opened were empty. Even the shop owners left and were on their way to the mosques. The little fruit and vegetable stands stood empty yet no one in the neighborhood would even think of going in and taking anything. We walked along the Mediterranean and enjoyed the sunrise across the sea. Crossing the Corniche, normally a terrifying experience, was a piece of cake at 6:30 in the morning.

We ventured to Chili’s on Tuesday evening for an “American” meal. Traffic was unusually heavy. It is the end of the semester for the university students as well as the public school students so people were out in droves. It is nice to have a western meal occasionally. Even here the portions are larger than they would be for a traditional Egyptian meal. Our server was a young man who teaches at an English language school. Pay is very low for teachers here and most have to supplement their income with another job or tutoring.

Our big technology expenditure this year is for new computers for all our staff. We have purchased 54 machines. We are having these built by a local company. I sent a list of components to a friend in the states who is very knowledgeable about computer components and he gave us suggestions. We are able to get a pretty decent unit built for approximately $500. The company is bringing them as they get built so we get a shipment of 10 or so a week. In the first shipment, they also brought all of the monitors, keyboards, mice and speakers. They delivered them in a private car and a regular taxi. The idea of a truck making its way up Schutz Street would be too hard. Staff are pretty excited to be getting new machines.

January 16

Sometimes we just get an urge for a MacDonald’s hamburger so the other night we strolled down to San Steffano Mall to the food court and order two meals. Pat got a regular cheeseburger, fries and soft drink while I ordered a quarter pound cheeseburger, fried and drink. The total cost was 39 LE. (approximately $7.00 including tax). As a franchise, these restaurants order all of their food supplies from the states, but they have to keep their prices a little lower because of the low per capita income of the Egyptian economy. We’ve been told that American franchises, while very popular, are not as profitable as many of the local Egyptian restaurants because of the cost of supplies. The labor cost is very low for both, as workers make a minimal wage, but since local food supplies are low there is a higher profit margin for local restaurants. By the way, I know it is said that a MacDonald’s quarter pounder is supposed to taste the same no matter where in the world you are, that is not the case. They are much tastier here than anywhere we have been!

Here is a rough currency breakdown based on the current rate of exchange for common denominations:

25 piasta – 4.5 cents (this will get you a tram ride anywhere in the city)
50 piasta – 9 cents (usually a small fee to use a restroom)
1 LE – 18 cents (this is the base unit of currency – also used for restroom use. We also pay 2 to 3 LE for someone who helps us park in a parking lot or carries luggage from the hotel to a taxi)
5 LE – 91 cents (a typical tip)
10 LE -- $1.83 (a very generous tip for someone who performs a service – such as a delivery person)
20 LE -- $3.66 (the cost of a taxi ride (one way) to most anywhere in Alex)
50 LE -- $9.16
100 LE -- $18.35
200 LE -- $36.70

Transportation costs are very inexpensive. We took a car and driver to and from the airport (Borg El Arab) which is located about an hour from the school and the total cost was 68 LE or $12.50 for 4 people. When we take the train to Cairo, it is usually around $8.35 one way per person. Pat got her hair cut and washed the other day for 40 LE with a 10 LE tip while I pay 20 LE with a 5 LE tip for my haircuts (granted there is not much there to cut). Egypt is primarily a cash society. There is very little credit card use and we have never seen a person pull out a check book to pay for anything.

Next week is the end of the first semester. The high school will have final exams. Students will test for 2 hours for each of their classes. Semester tests are comprehensive and can account for 20 % of their final semester grade so students usually take this very seriously. We are beginning a 10 week stretch with only school day off until spring break. It will be a very tough grind for both students and staff. Spring break begins April 3rd and we are already looking forward to a relaxing trip to the island of Crete!